Kenmore Washing Machine Suspension & Shock Absorption Parts



We offer a complete line of suspension services, including repairing, rebuilding, and revalving of shock absorbers, front forks, and steering dampers of all major manufacturers of motorcycle and car suspension. The bushings are greased on both sides, and the seals get enough grease to make them slide easily for assembly and when the fork is first used. Doing this will remove all residual fork oil and other foreign debris that has been collected during the disassembly process.

After the spring, I removed the tie-rod assembly. A vehicle with broken or worn coil springs can be driven, but the ride quality will be diminished, and, more importantly, the vehicle's handling will be compromised. Don't forget that a sagging rear spring can also cause a ride height change in the front of the car.

Our car was partially disassembled decades ago, and the entire suspension and steering system was already stripped from the vehicle, with only the K-member remaining in place. CAUTION: Thoroughly clean off all dirt from top of shock absorbers, front and rear, to avoid getting dirt into absorbers when filler plugs are removed.

Weak shocks and struts won't necessarily create a driving hazards if you continue to drive on them, but there are studies that show worn shocks increase the distance it takes to stop a vehicle on a rough surface. Be very careful because the spring will still be under compression when the nut reaches the end of the bolt.

The jack must be located under the control arm- where the shock absorber mounts "D". This location, along with longer spring bolts will lower the rear of the car between one and two inches. Springs absorb the energy and shocks control the release of that energy. Tip: You'll have to use your jack to support the lower control arm in order to remove the springs, so make sure you place a few jack stands under the vehicle for support.

The main purpose of the suspension and steering systems is to let the wheels to move independently while still keeping them aligned and stable. Once that is done, disassembly of the control arms, shocks, and steering knuckles is easy. Lastly, in rear suspension, some bottom out control may be built into the bike.

Before the differential can be removed, the 21mm long bolts placed vertically in the front of the differential must be removed. Next, I removed the lower control arm from the spindle by taking off the lower ball joint. Suspension springs begin to sag and lose a tremendous amount of spring pressure as they age.

Before you remove this bolt and nut, place your jack stand underneath the lower control arm and crank it up until you see the spring begin to slowly compress. There are also "heavy-duty" shocks and struts with larger diameter pistons that increase resistance for greater control.

The end connects to the strut with a conical 'rod' locked with Suspension Disassembly a nut, and the tie rod screws into the end and also has a locking nut. There are a few ways to remove the rubber bushings: burn them out, force a drill bit into the rubber until it comes loose or do them in this manner.

Unbolt the upper control arm at the cam bolts. I remove the tie rod end first to allow the spindle knuckle to easily move around during disassembly. The lower control arm and strut rod go in together. The press is used to push the rubber out with a sleeve placed on the lower part of the control arm to receive the bushing.

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